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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.
These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.
I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.
If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.
Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.
Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from 1AAuto.com. These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.
These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.
Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle with the suspension hanging. Once we've done that, we're gonna remove our five 21-millimeter lug nuts. Let's get the wheel off of here. All right, so now that we have the wheel off of here we have a nice clear view of our front strut. Something that I like to mention is you're gonna have to remove your upper sway bar link mounting point here. A lot of times what happens when you try to take this off is it gets damaged in some way, whether it's from trying to grab from the backside and ruining the boot, or even just stripping this out. One way or another, usually what it comes down to is you're gonna have to replace the sway bar link at the same time. For me personally, I'm gonna be replacing the sway bar link at the same time as the strut. That's just how I roll and of course, I do them as a pair with the other side of the vehicle. With that said, if you weren't replacing the sway bar link, what you could try to do is to use an Allen head just like this, put it in the center where the stud is, hold that still and then use your wrench to turn the 17-millimeter nut to relieve the tension, but they usually strip out.
So, I've got my locking pliers holding onto the backside of the stud as tight as I possibly can. Now, I'm gonna turn the 17-millimeter nut and try to relieve it.
Easy peasy. So, this is pretty much what happens when you actually grab onto the backside, it kind of ruined the boot. Now, the next thing we need to do is remove the mounting bolt that holds our flex hose to the strut itself. It's always a great idea to spray down anything you're gonna be removing with a little bit of penetrant. Awesome. Let's take one of our lug nuts, put it right onto the stud, that's gonna help hold the rotor so it can't wobble around. Now, the next thing we need to do is remove our bolts that hold our knuckle to our strut. I'm gonna hold one side with a wrench and remove the other side. Just gonna leave that in there for now, do the same to the other bolt. Now, the next thing we need to do is take something such as a bungee cord or whatever you might happen to have, but we need to apply a little bit of pressure on this, so there's no way that it can come falling down and potentially put a tug on this or even your axle. I'm just gonna take a nice bungee cord, come through in between the subframe and the control arm itself. And then I'll come up and around this and set that right in like that. Now we can go ahead and get our bolts out of here. We'll slowly let this down, try to keep it controlled as much as possible. That looks pretty great just like that. We'll have it stay. Now we need to get under the hood.
Now that we're up underneath the hood, we wanna pay attention to the direction that this plate is in. It's kind of like a little horseshoe and we want it facing towards the front of the vehicle. Also, what I like to mention is let's go ahead and spray down these three mounting nuts right here with some penetrant. And something else to mention is you don't wanna try to loosen this middle knot right here. Just leave it alone. Now, for this portion we're gonna take off these 13-millimeter nuts, you're obviously gonna need a swivel of some sort or even a pivoting extension. Okay, so at this point, we only have one nut left. Something that you wanna think about is that there's gonna be nothing else holding strut to the body of the vehicle. With that said, go ahead and reach down under there, hold on to the strut or hold it up with something else. So that way there there's no way it can potentially hurt you and let's get this off of here. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends. Now it's time to install our brand new quality strut. Something that I wanna mention real quick, is you wanna make sure that you have the mounting point for your flex hose located on the correct side. Once you're sure of it, let's go ahead and get this installed. Now, coming from down underneath the vehicle, we're just gonna come right up and we're gonna try to line up those studs with the holes in the strut tower. There we are. Let's go ahead and start on all of our nuts. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker but we'll call it your prerogative. Now, we're just gonna bottom these out. Don't make them too tight because we're gonna be torquing them but before we can do that, we have to have a couple more steps involved.
I put a little bit of thread locker on my bolts that are gonna be holding the knuckle to the strut. Let's go ahead and get our bungee cord out of the way. Lift this up, now we'll line it up with the holes. These bolts are gonna have to come through from the rear of the vehicle towards the front. Start with whichever one is easiest for you. Start on those nuts. Snug them up. I like to use a little bit of copper never seize where the bolt's gonna be for the flex hose. Let's get the flex hose situated, start in that bolt, and then we'll snug it up. Bring this over, line it up with your hole. Start the nut on there. We'll bottom it out and then we'll torque that to 55 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now we're gonna go ahead and torque these bolts, get our socket on there and, of course, our wrench. Torque these to 166 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get our lug nut off of there, get the wheel up on here, we'll bottom out the lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 76 foot-pounds.
All right, let's torque them in a crisscross manner. Torqued. So, now with the entire weight of the vehicle down on the ground, we're gonna go ahead and torque these to 29 foot-pounds. Torqued.
