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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you rear brake replacement on this 2003 Honda Odyssey, same as any '99 to '04 Odyssey. We're going to show you the right hand or passenger side. Obviously, you will always want to replace brakes for both sides. We show you one side. Do the other side as well.
Tools you'll need: You'll need a new brake set from 1A Auto.com, jack and jack stands, a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar or your lug wrench, 12 to 14 millimeter sockets and ratchet, a wire brush. You may or may not need a large C Clamp, and you'll need an impact driver and a hammer if the original screws are still in your disks. Lastly, you'll need a torque wrench to put everything together correctly.
First, raise and support the vehicle. Then use a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. If you're just using hand tools, actually, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts when the wheel is on the ground and the vehicle is in park. Loosen the lug nuts first. Then raise and support the vehicle. Remove the five lug nuts and remove the rear wheel.
Okay, we're in around behind the rotors. We've got two bolts. They're 12 millimeter, here and here. So I'll put a wrench on them, put another wrench on there for some extra leverage, then loosen them. Then just fast forward, as we take them the rest of the way out. Now we're going to grab on the caliper and pull it towards the outside of the vehicle. As we pull it out, that forces the piston back into the caliper and then loosens it up and it comes right off and then we can kind of prop it up in behind. Then we take the pads out just by pulling them out of their brackets. Now we're putting a wrench on this 14-millimeter bolt here, so we want to remove this one and then this one up here. These two bolts hold the caliper bracket on. Let's put a 14 millimeter wrench on there and hook the larger wrench on to it or use a larger handle socket and ratchet. Loosen up those bolts and then remove them and remove the caliper. Fast forward here a little bit.
So now we're going to use an impact driver. We're going to load that into the screw and then you turn it counterclockwise, use the hammer, and give it a good whack, and it loosens up some bolts. We're going to just fast forward as we remove the screws the rest of the way, and hopefully your rear rotor comes off this well. If not, you can use a hammer. Okay. Now install your new brake from 1A Auto, and then use the two screws I'll fast forward as we put those back in to hold it in place. There's a small rubber plug you want to force out of the old rotor and then just put it into the new rotor, press it in by hand first. Then grab a screwdriver and push it in the rest of the way.
Before you reinstall the brackets, you want to use a wire brush and clean the stainless steel slides. Some brake pads actually come with new ones, so you either replace them or clean them up. Then you make sure that your bolt slides are free. If they're not free or have too much, they're too sticky, pull them right out, clean them up and grease them. Now take your brackets and put them into place. Start the two bolts on, and in a minute here I'm just going to fast forward as I get those, basically just get those bolts started and seated. Set your torque wrench to 45 foot-pounds. Now, just slide the outer pad in. It goes right into the slides. Then the inner one goes in the exact same way. Now you'll want to take your caliper. Use a large C-Clamp and make sure you reset the piston. As you tighten it up, the piston gets pushed back into the caliper. Usually just by pulling on it in the beginning, you're able to reset the piston but you just want to make sure. Then you can slide the caliper right on. Now put your 12 millimeter bolts back in. Set your torque wrench to 20 foot-pounds and tighten them up.
Now, I'm going to fast forward to put the wheel back in place. Start all five lug nuts on by hand first. Then preliminarily tighten them, and then lower your vehicle to the ground. Now set your torque wrench to 90-100 foot-pounds and torque the wheel using a star pattern. Whenever you've had the brakes apart, just make sure that you pump the pedal a few times, make sure it's nice and firm. Then before you road-test your vehicle, just do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour just to make sure the brakes are working properly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
