Ford Wheel Hub & Bearing

These replacement Front hub and bearing assemblies are just what you need to get your Ford Pickup or Excursion in good working order again.

Specifications:

• Comes as a PAIR
  • Fits both the LH (Driver Side) & RH (Passenger Side) Front
• Includes ABS sensors
• Correct for Excursion & Super Duty (SD) trucks that have 4wd, 4 wheel ABS, SRW (single rear wheels), & 13mm thick hub flange This is the thickness of the circular part that the wheel bolts to (the studs are installed in to it) Ford used two sizes 11 MM and 13. The 13 MM is the most commonly used.
• Fits 8 Lug Wheels
• Studs already installed
• Will not fit trucks with 10mm thick hubs because it will cause the front brakes to drag

Note: For 1999 models you can find the production date of your vehicle on either the outer edge of the driver's front door or on the latch pillar that the door closes on.

Quality

• 1A Auto exclusive 2 Year Warranty.
  • If either of these hub bearings should fail to provide satisfactory performance you may exchange it.
• You will not have a problem with our product. If you are comparing us to someone selling a brand name product remember brand names are only as good as the company selling them. Both Bizrate.com and The Better Business Bureau recognize 1A Auto as a trusted online seller. You will be pleased with what you find out about us.
• You don't want to be delayed by a defective part. 1A Auto hub bearings are all tested prior to shipping.
• If your ABS light is on because of a bad hub you want to make sure you fix the problem. The ABS Sensors on our hubs are tested before they are installed on the part, and tested again after the part is assembled.
  • The ABS sensor communicates with your vehicles computer. A malfunctioning ABS sensor could cause your ABS light to come on falsely or it can damage your vehicles computer.

Fit Guaranteed

• These hub bearing assemblies will install just like the originals. You can use your existing hardware.
• Save time and money with these direct fit hub bearing assemblies. No trips to the auto parts store or extra time trying to match up and press bearings.

Value

• Some shops and dealers charge more for parts and repairs when they think the customer doesn't know what is involved. Now you can get the value you deserve. Knowing what this repair entails can be the difference between the value of doing it yourself, or the pain of a costly part or repair bill.

Installation

• 1. Jack the vehicle up and support with proper jack stands.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire.
  3. Have a helper hold the brake pedal while you loosen the Axle Shaft Nut. This usually requires a large socket (30mm or larger) and impact wrench.
  4. Remove the brake caliper and brake rotor. Use string or a plastic tie to hang the caliper up and out of the way. DO NOT allow the caliper to hang by its own brake hose.
  5. Unplug ABS sensor (if applicable)
  6. Unbolt the hub flange. The hub may come free from the axle shaft easily, if not, use a gear puller or similar tool that pulls on the hub while pushing on the axle shaft. DO NOT try to drive the axle out with a hammer, this could ruin your axle CV joints.
  7. Reverse order to install.
  We were able to do a removal and replace on a GM car in about 45 minutes.
  
  NOTE: If you are unsure which of your hubs is bad listen while you turn the wheel slightly. If you hear the noise while you curve to the right and it goes away when curving to the left your RIGHT hand or passenger side hub is going bad and vice versa. In our experience replacing both hubs is best even if only one is bad. Most likely the other side is gong to go bad soon. Original Equipment (OE) hubs usually last to just over 100,000 miles.
• Hub installation is a degree more difficult than changing a tire on most vehicles.