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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Carbon black(airborne, unbound particles of respirable size), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the transmission mounts. This is a 2003 Honda Civic, and this is basically the same for any 2001 to 2001 Civic with the 1.7-liter. Items you need are new a transmission mount from 1AAuto.com, 10 to 15mm sockets with ratchet extensions, 15 to 17mm wrenches, jack and jack stands, penetrating oil, and a torque wrench.
When jacking up the motor and transmission, you want to use a piece of wood, so you don't risk breaking the transmission casing or the oil pan. Just going to put a little bit of pressure on the bottom of the transmission, so it stays in place when we undo the mount. If you have a factory air cleaner setup, you'll have to remove that.
In this case, the vehicle came with an aftermarket intake. We're going to remove the aftermarket intake with this 10mm bolt, undoing this hose clamp, disconnecting this sensor. We're going to put some penetrating oil on the six bolts for the transmission now. You have the two for the bracket to the actual transmission, one bolt going from the bracket through the actual rubber mount, and then one, two, three bolts mounting the rubber mount to the body.
When removing the bolt from the transmission bracket through the rubber mount, you'll need to use a wrench or a low profile ratchet so that you don't come in contact with this bracket on the transmission. Even though the bolt's unthreaded, sometimes they can get stuck to the lever inside of the mount, so we're going to take two wrenches, in this case, the 17mm and the 15mm, that fit over the shaft of the bolt and behind the head, so we can pry it out.
Now we're going to loosen the bolts on the transmission bracket to get enough clearance to remove the rest of our mount bolt. We're going to remove these two 10mm bolts. With this bolt removed, we'll remove this stop from the motor mount, take our transmission bracket out of the way, and set it aside to access the three 17mm bolts on the rubber mount.
With the mount out of the vehicle, you can inspect it. What happens a lot on the mounts is the rubber inside tears, and you can actually see that our mount is in good shape so we're not one to waste the new part so we're going to reinstall the original one.
Here is the original one out of the vehicle. If you did knew a new one from 1AAuto, you can see it's a direct fit, all the same mounting points. It's going to go in, bolt in just like the original.
Reinstall the three bolts that attach the transmission mount to the body. We're going to take some penetrating oil and spray it into the rubber mount to make sure our bolt goes through smoothly. Then we'll take our transmission bracket and install it over the studs on the transmission.
Before fastening the transmission bracket, we're going to put the bolt through the mount and start the first couple of threads, and you're tight. So, now we're going to bring up the transmission with our floor jack until it touches the bottom of the transmission bracket. Install the fasteners onto the transmission bracket, bring them down tight. So, again, ensure that your fasteners are nice and tight by hand.
Now we're going to bring the transmission mount bolt down nice and tight by hand. If you can get a torque wrench on, the torque spec is 40 foot-pounds, but we're just going to get it nice and tight by hand. Going to torque transmission bracket bolts to 40 foot-pounds.
Now we'll install this brace with two 10mm bolts. Now we're going to reinstall our aftermarket air intake or, in your case, it could be the OEM air box and intake setup, in the reverse order we removed it.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to place the upper engine mount. This is a 2003 Honda Civic with the 1.7-liter motor. It's pretty much the same for any 2001 through 2005 Civic with the 1.7-liter 4-cylinder. You'll need a new upper engine mount from 1aauto.com; 10 and 14mm sockets as well as a 15mm deep socket, ratchets and extensions, 10mm wrench, jack and jack stands, penetrating oil, flat head screwdriver, and a torque wrench.
Now we'll be using the piece of wood on a floor jack to jack up against the bottom of the oil pan. Always be careful not to use too much pressure, because an aluminum oil pan can crack. Just jack it up a little to support the motor while we disconnect the mount.
We need to move the power steering reservoir out of the way by pushing this tab backwards, lifting it up, placing it off to the side without tipping it over. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the ABS module in place. Using a flat head screwdriver, pry out the safety on the connector for the ABS pump. Move the connector off to the side.
Remove the three 15mm nuts. Remove the engine bracket from the engine and mount. Set it to the side.
Loosen the 10mm nut securing the bottom of the ABS pump bracket to the body. Inspect your brake lines at the ABS pump to make sure that there's no corrosion or nothing that will kink or damage the lines.
Using a 14mm socket and an extension, move the pump until you can reach the mount bolt. If the hardware's out, remove the motor mount from the frame.
Here we have our old part from the vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, we have the same size and mounting locations, same studs. Underneath is just a little bit different, but it's not going to affect the install.
Our new part will still be a direct fit and will go in just the way it should.
Install your new motor mount into the frame rail. Line up your bolt positions. Reinstall your three 14mm bolts. Torque your motor mount bolts to 32 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the two 10mm bolts at the top of the ABS pump before tightening the bottom. Tighten the 10mm bolt at the bottom of the ABS pump.
Reinstall your motor mount bracket onto the studs. Reattach the three 15mm nuts. Torque the nuts on the motor mount bracket to 45 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your ABS pump connector. Put your power steering pump reservoir back on the bracket. Lower the jack.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you replacement of the front lower engine mount. This is a 2003 Honda Civic with the 1.7-liter VTEC motor as well as an automatic transmission. Pretty much the same for any Civic with the 1.7-liter and an automatic transmission. Items you'll need include a new lower engine mount from 1AAuto.com, 17mm socket with a ratchet and extension, jack and jack stands, torque wrench, penetrating oil.
Remove the 17mm bolt from the top of the motor mount. We're using a lift and bottle jack. You can also have your vehicle on jack stands and use a floor jack to support the engine during the repair.
Remove the front motor mount bolt with a 17mm socket. Remove the 17mm bolt at the bottom of the motor mount. You can remove the motor mount from the top of the vehicle, but since we're underneath, we're going to lift up out of the mount, bring it to the side, remove it from the car.
Here we have our old part from the vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, we have the same mounting locations both for engine into the frame. Our old motor mount is torn. Years of engine vibration, starting and stopping, can cause this type of failure. You can see our new part, nice and firm. It's going to bolt right in, direct fit.
Now we're going to put our motor mount back in, attach the bottom bolt, just finger tight until we've lined up the bolt through the rubber mount. Hold the rear nut in place while you wind up the front motor mount bolt. With the motor mount bolt in place, we can finish attaching our mount to the engine. Finish tightening the front motor mount bolt and torque to 47 foot-pounds. Install the top motor mount bolt. Torque the motor mount bolts to 47 foot-pounds. Lower the jack.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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