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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi everyone, Sue here from 1A Auto and today we're going to be doing front brake service on a 06 Honda Element. If you need these parts or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
To remove the tire you need a 19 millimeter socket. I have the vehicle, has weight on it so that I can loosen up each lug nut as I go around. I'm using a two post lift. At home you can use jack and jack stands. Now I have it up in the air. I'm just going to remove all the lug nuts. Now we can discard the hubcap.
I'm going to install our tool that we sell here on 1A Auto and it is a hose crimper. So if you're doing a brake job and you don't want your bleeder screw, once you open it, you don't want to leak brake fluid, it just collapses with the wingnut. That's going to stop the fluid from coming through. So the first thing I do on any brake job is obviously break open the bleeder screw to make sure it comes ... It'll free up for when we open it up to push our brakes back. I got a catch bucket underneath. So I know the bleeder screw opens up so I'm just going to snug it down. This will be ready to open up easily. 12 millimeter socket on the caliper slider bolts. Break that free. Now take both of them out.
Now I'm going to take a pry bar and pry that caliper off the bracket. There's our bracket. I'm going to use my caliper hanger which I did get at 1A Auto and that way I can hang it up here and out of the way. Now I have exposed the caliper bracket and I've got two mounting bolts here. Going to use a 17 millimeter socket. I'm going to break the caliper bracket free. Break the top one free. And there we have the caliper bracket with the pads in it. So now I'm going to grab the caliper and I'm going to check it to see if it's any good. I got to push the piston back just like you do with every brake job, push the piston back after I open up the bleeder screw. So I'm going to put my little C-clamps in there that I have, and I'm going to break open this bleeder screw before I push the piston back in. Okay, now with the bleeder screw open, you'll hopefully aim that correctly at the bucket.
Oh this thing is going back really hard. As you can see, it won't go all the way in. It is frozen right there. I am squeezing that and we know it's not because the flex hose has collapsed, I have the bleeder screw open. So with that bleeder screw open, that piston should go seat itself all the way back, flush in the piston because it has no way but to come out this way. So it's not going to retract back in there. So I know that my caliper piston is seized. So I do need new calipers now. So now I have to order a caliper and I do them as a pair always. So I'll be doing a caliper on the other side. So I'm going to take the front flex hose off. Now that I know that I have to replace the caliper, let's see if I can break it free without it attached to the bracket. Okay, got to get my catch pan underneath.
I'm going to keep my banjo bolt for the hose aside because that is going to have to get reused. Most of the time the calipers do not come with new bolts. They'll come with new washers. So now I'm going to get the rotor off and you can see that this factory rotor is held on with two flat ... They've got a cone shape to them, seat little bolts. So we use a pneumatic screwdriver, which is a hammer type. So you put the pressure on it and it spins and unlocks it. We'll get this bottom one. Perfect. You do not have to replace these. Some people will, they break or they strip off and you have to drill them out. It's just a luxury to have the rotor sit flush while you're working on the brakes. So I'm going to hit the hub with a hammer, try to break it free.
We're not going to use the rotor, so feel free to hit the surface. There you have it. Wow. Look at those hard spots. I'm sure they had a brake pulsation. I'm going to clean up the hub surface. First, I'm going to spray it with a little brake parts cleaner. Then I'm going to use my wire brush. Get any surface rust off. I just like to make sure I get inside, closest to the hub, the center where the rust really forms. And as you can see how it held a rotor on pretty good. So even though we were going to replace the caliper, I'm going to show you quick way of what I would do if I was to reuse this old caliper. So I'm taking that hardware out because I've got to make sure that I bought some, because I'm going to have to reuse that if I didn't.
So I take the outer pad out, take the inner pad out and then I've got good sliders here. Nope, that one's frozen. So if I had two good sliders here, look at the surface rust on this. I would remove these tens and I would strongly, if you're not going to replace the caliper, if you don't need to. I would strongly get new hardware because these tens are thin and I would take the caliper pins out, clean up the caliper grease, clean in there the best I can and reapply new caliper grease to that slider and make sure that they sit good. Make sure you examine the boots and there's no holes, no tears. And of course we know this one's frozen. Clean the surface here. Get rid of all the surface rust. Put caliper grease on the bottom. If you get the new hardware, just install it. If you use the old one, take a wire brush to all of this. Only apply caliper grease to the bottom side. Do not apply caliper grease or slider grease to the top, and then you should be ready to go.
Here we have our new rotors for our 06 Honda Element from 1A Auto. Got the new pans and they've got the nice down cut angle on the edges to stop the squealing and the brake dust build up. It also helps cool down the pad, there's slotted holes from the manufacturer so that you can put the anti-rattle clips in. It also comes with the indicator and already has the shims mounted on the back. The rotor is a nice cross-cut rotor on front and back. It's got the quality mounted cooling fins that come from the factory, same amount that the manufacturer requires. It's got the two seated screw holes for the hub. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to one 1aauto.com.
So now I'm going to install my new rotor and it comes with that shipping oil on it. So I just put it on the hub backwards like this so I can spray it and now I can flip it around. And before I do that, I'm going to put some ... This anti-seize so that it's, hopefully the next time someone doesn't have to hammer as hard as I just did. Just spread it out. I put it thick on around the hub and then I just go outward with it. Line up those awnings screw. Let's put those on first and then we'll spray it down and clean it. I use the pneumatic screwdriver also to install it and I just bottom them out. Give it a nice spin and hit it. See how that ... It was almost at an angle, so I'll double check both sides. Perfect. Now I can clean the surface.
So I've got a new caliper and I'm going to put some caliper grease on the bottom part of the caliper bracket, where the tins are going to sit. And hopefully in the future, stops it from rusting and corroding the tins. And what happens if you don't put new hardware on or if you don't take care of underneath where the pins sit, water gets in there, salt from the New England roads and the metal starts to flake in, it puts pressure on the tins and it slides them up. And what that will happen is makes the pads stop being able to slide on a nice smooth surface. It's like it becomes a actual frost heave in a sense.
And if the pads don't move smoothly, when that happens, you have premature wear on the pads. Okay. Once those are all seated, I'm just going to take and slide open, pull one of the sliders out or both of them just to see if they put an ample amount of silicone taste on there. I'm going to put a little more because when I pulled that out I could actually feel it rubbing against the metal. I like to add mine right to the boot. I'm going to put some more on this pin. Make sure that I get it on the inside of the line, these wrinkle parts, the folds. That way that silicone will always be in there. You can work it, push it all the way down and let the air come out. So I'm just going to take a little, this pocket screwdriver and I'm going to hold that open. There we go. Yeah, I got the air out. That's what I'm looking to do. I'm just going to do the same thing to this side.
Now I'm going to install the new caliper bracket on the knuckle. We have the two mounting bolts, I'm going to start them by hand. So now I'm going to torque the caliper bracket to the knuckle in the 17 millimeter socket and it is 80 foot-pounds. I'm going to install the pads now. So the one without the indicator is the outside one. So I'll slide that right in the spot and then I'm going to put the inner one in. Sometimes you have to just take a little screwdriver and push the pin back into place. There we go.
So we're going to put the anti-rattle pins, clips, butterflies, springs, whatever you want to call them. They go in those slots that are provided in the pads and you collapse them, line them up. Now I strongly recommend you hold on to the pad because it will just push them right out. So now I can install the actual caliper. Now piston's already back, it's pushed back from the factory when they rebuild it. Let's see, it comes with a nice new piston and seal. I'm going to slide that right on so that the pad doesn't pop out again. You got to turn the bracket, the slider pin has gotten a flat spot on it. I'm going to put the top bolt in. Now I've got to put the lower bolt in and you'll see what I mean by the flat spot. See, there's one right there and one right there. So they angle it like that. They have a spot to sit on the caliper. That's a 12 millimeter socket.
I'm just going to snug it down because I'm going to torque it to the specs, which is 25 foot-pounds. Now it comes time to install the flex hose. This caliper did come with a new banjo bolt, so make sure you get no dirt on the threads, and new copper washer that it supplies with. And we're going to look at this hose and make sure that the old copper washer is not stuck on it. Confirm it several times and it is right there. So the way I like to do is take the old bolts, sometimes you can put it right through there, pop that washer right off. Take a rag and just clean the surface, make sure there's no debris. Take the new bleeder screw bolt, banjo bolt, slide it through. New copper washer on this side.
So you got a new copper washer here, new copper washer there. This gives you a nice guide where the hose is going to sit and you're just going to turn that bolt in. That is a 12 millimeter also. I want those copper washers to seat so once it bottoms out, I'm going to tighten this to a good taut feeling. And I know that those couple washers have been seated properly. There you go. Now we can undo our tool that collapses the hose, stops it from leaking. Take that off. You can see the rubber bounces right back, and now I'm just going to open this bleeder screw. I've got my catch pan still there and I'm going to gravity bleed this. Once the fluid is coming through and it's coming through in a good, nice stream, there's no air bubbles. I can shut that bleeder screw off.
Now that the calipers and pads were installed in the front. I'm going to seat the pads and pump up the brakes. Let's check the brake fluid. So the manufacturer recommends DOT 3 which I'm going to put in, and this is the diaphragm, it goes down by suction when the brake fluid is low. So I just push it gently back into place. Make there's no chunks of dirt or anything or debris. So it's DOT 3 brake fluid, I'm going to fill it up to the full line, which is on the side here. You can see it starting to come up. I'm going to reinstall the cap. It's got these offsets, see how they're angled, so they lock them down and then it just kind of sucks it down. It's in there good. I'm going to gravity bleed one last time. I'm going to open up the passenger front bleeder screw. See if I can get in there. I'm going to make sure there's no air bubbles.
Like I said, I've already, gravity bled this when I first assembled it before I pumped it up. Steady drip coming out. No bubbles. So I'm going to tighten this up, clean it. Make sure you get with a banjo bolt, make sure that's nice and clean because you're going to want to recheck it after you pump the brakes up one last time. Make sure you don't have any leaks on the gasket. I'm going to install the bleeder screw cover. Now we're ready to go to the driver's side, do the same. Get a wrench, open that up. A couple of air bubbles there. I've got no more air bubbles. I've got a steady drip coming, so I'm going to close up the bleeder screw. Make sure that's tight. Clean it up and put my cover back on. Now I'm ready to install the wheels.
I'm going to mount the tire again. Grab your hubcap because this particular Honda does not have extra wide cutouts for three lug nuts. Set the rim up on the hub and put your lug nuts on. So the wheel torque, I got the weight of the vehicle down on the tire and I'm going to torque up the wheels and the wheel torque manufacturers spec is 80 foot-pounds.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. Today on our '06 Honda element I'm going to show you how to replace the ebrake shoes. If you need any parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
19 millimeter socket and we're going to break free the lug nuts. You got the pressure of the vehicle on the tire still, so it doesn't turn. I use the two posts lift. At home, you can use jack and jack stands. I'm going to take all the lug nuts off and remove the tire.
The caliper slider pins bolts are 14 millimeter sockets or a wrench. Now with a little pry bar I'm going to pry this right off. There you go. Now I've got to push the piston back. I'm just going to set that aside, make sure it's out of my way.
Let's take that bottom bolt out. Now we can pull the caliper bracket off. Wow. Now it's time to take the rotor off. These rotors have mounting little screws on them, so we're going to use the pneumatic screwdriver. It acts like a pump puncture, so you hold it, taut, you hit it with a hammer. If you get one where the Phillips head is all worn out, I'm going to use a chisel and literally try to turn it with the chisel. There we go.
You don't need these. They're just there to help keep the rotor flush while you're adjusting the e-brakes. I'm just going to give it a quick little spray down on the hub area. Pray this comes right off with a quick hit of the hammer. Okay, let's get it off the rest of the way. Wow. Obviously we can tell that the backing plate has seen better days. It's pretty gone right there. As long as where the e-brake springs mount, that metal seems to be in good shape. So I'm going to give it a cleanup and see what we're working with.
I'm going to start by taking the e-brake mounting springs out. These are pins that slide in the back, and you can just turn them into the slotted position of where they mount on the spring. That's considered a spring and here is the actual pin. It's offset because it's such a funky setup. That's not bent. That's offset. That's the way it goes.
I've got new hardware. I recommend if you ever do a brake job to always replace the hardware unless you know you just did it within a year ago. It loses its spring tension on it, and then it won't do its job. Come over here and undo the same bolt pin on this side. Let's see what we get.
There's the adjuster and the bottom spring. There's the adjuster. Several people--some people like to take the e-brake cable right out of this arm. I personally don't like to because sometimes it's harder to fight with this. You still have to take this off. So I leave it in when I do this. I take a flat head screwdriver and go right into this horseshoe clip, and I try to spread the ears on it and work it back and forth. Sometimes you can go right up against that shoe like that. Use the shoe as leverage and pry that. There we go.
I just had to get in there--enough now with that exposed like that I can take my screwdriver. Bring it in there, and just pull this clip out. That was an effort. Now if you've never done one of these before, pay attention. The other side's still together. I always like to leave one side together while I do the opposites, but so it goes. This is like a spring washer. It's just a 10 washer, but it's oval-shaped, so put pressure on that. That's the way the arm's going to go. The e-brake shoe is going to go with the pin, flat face out in the clip on the inside.
Now I'm going to get a new e-brake shoe and new hardware and assemble it. I like to clean the surface of rust and the points, the hit points, pressure points for the C-brake shoes, are these little divots that stick out, and put a little caliper grease on there. That keeps them from when they slide back and forth when the e-brake's released and applied. Make sure I get my bucket down there. I'll clean this up a little bit.
Now that's all dried, so I'm going to apply a little caliper grease to those high spots. There's six of them total. Now we got the new e-brake shoe here. So you're going to line up the way it looks. We got the big cutout down here, and the half-moon up here. So that's the top and that's the bottom. That's where the adjuster is going to sit. We're going to take our new, it's brass pin because I got new hardware for the e-brake. I like to put a little bit of caliper grease there. You're going to get dirty. So now I can slide that through, and now that's nice and stays. It doesn't freeze up. That's what I'm looking for. I don't want it to freeze up.
So I've applied some caliper grease here. I'm going to take that spring washer, and I'm going to put it in between the shoe and the arm. Some people put it on the outside here. I like to put it in between because then it holds those two pieces of metal separate, puts pressure on them, so there's enough gap so that that can move back and forth. Now I could take a pair of locking pliers, make sure they're out of your way. I'm going to on that side so lock it down.
I put a pair of needle nose lock pliers on there, and I've barely get them on the ear of the brass punch. Now with all this whole rig up here, I just got to get the ear to start. That's all I got to do. Then I could take a pair of pliers or something, slide it on, just like that. Wonderful. Let's undo these, get those out of the way, and finish up with these clamps, these pliers. There we go.
So it is definitely a combination of pliers and angles. Let's see if I can close the ears on that horseshoe. There we go. Here we go. Let's do it. Wonderful. Now you can see it moves nice and freely. It's not frozen up anyway. I'm going to bring that up and line that up. We've got the crossover bar, and that seats right in that little cutout. That goes right like this. That's how it's going to sit inside there.
The first thing I'm going to do is install the clip so I can get this clip in there. And if you notice how this has that cutout, see it's got ... I showed you on the old one. That's going to go in that manner. This one wants to go around this, the e-brake adjuster rod. Okay. You have to hold that with one hand in the back. Put a new spring on. See if you can move these things around.
I like to try to put it on in that manner because it helps being able to turn this clip. Okay, now you can take a pair of needle nose and hold the wings. At the same time get a pair of pliers that are wide enough, and you're going to push down, push on that spring and turn it. There we go.
So now I have my new adjuster, and I'm going to just load the threads up with a little bit of anti-seize, so the adjuster will hopefully always move on the e-brakes. Guide the adjuster. You're going to bring this all the way down to the bottom because we don't want any adjustment on it yet. Bottom that right out. Nice. On this side, I'm going to do the same. Take just a little bit, dab it inside there. Put that cover on. Perfect.
Make sure you have that cutout ear up on the top and the half-moon on the top and you put the spring up in the guided hole. There we go. Okay, let's get this. There We go. So that should be in that angle. I cannot use my hand. It's not big enough to hold the back of that pin and utilize my thumb. So I'm going to get a pair of C-clamp pliers and hold the e-brake shoe in place.
Now let's take this lovely spring. Now the object of the game is to get that slotted piece over the metal piece. Yeah, that's good.
Now I'm going to put the adjuster in. I'm going to set it up inside first. Then I'll guide one side in and then guide the other in like that. Might have to adjust some of it out. Perfect.
Now let's install the spring. These two little ear tabs, one here and one there, that's where the spring goes. You just connect it in there like that, bring it on over to the other side. Connect it in like that. On the hardware there is one spring per side that looks like this. They are two springs per side that looks like this. You can't get them confused. One has a hook and one has an l-shaped slot. The l-shaped one is going to go in here, and it's going to go on to that cross lever rod right like that. Just like that.
The top springs are going to go in these half-moon slots in the shoe, see right there. I hope you can see that. Then up onto the ear tab. There we go. Then grab that ear, bring it up to that tab. I'm going to put some anti-seize around the hub here on the surface. I already took a wire brush to it. So you're going to line up the adjuster hole and the mounting bolt holes. With that we have, it's going to go like this.
Now we need to undo the adjuster a little bit. The e-brake shoes will not fit inside the rotor housing. It's the hat of the rotor. I'm backing off on the adjustment. There we go. Perfect.
At this point, I want to adjust the e-brake, and by doing that, the rotor has to be flush on the hat ... the hub. So where we had this screw hole hasn't been used for a while. It's all rusty. And this one was stripped. So I'm going to use two lug nuts. If you have the two mounting screws and they work, you don't have to use the lug nuts. You can use those. You just want to make sure it's tight to the hub. If you have to bang on it, if you want to be able to spin this and adjust the ebrakes and turn it.
Okay. Now I'm going to take that adjuster cover off. It might back off a little bit on that. You're going to use the window. Line up where these star adjuster is, and this way you can adjust it. I have a high spot right there. You don't want the e-brakes to be snug because if they're too snug, when it goes down the road, the brakes expand, the wheels start to smoke obviously because it will be almost as if you have the e-brake on. There we go. Its backing plate is pretty bad. That's where I'm going to leave it. Now we're going to install the boot.
I'm going to start the bolts by hand and then I'm just going to snug them down and then get the manufacturer specs and torque them down. Let's get the caliper itself out of the way. It's a size 14 socket. Snug those up. Get our torque wrench. The manufacturer's specs on this is 41 foot-pounds.
Now we can install our pads. The one with the indicator goes on the inside and the one without goes on the out. You just basically sit right in, like that, and then we're just going to slide the caliper on. Get our two slider bolts. It's a 14 millimeter socket. The torque on that is 16 foot-pounds.
Let's put the lug nuts back on. It's a 19 millimeter socket. Just going to tighten them all down and then I can lower it down and torque it. I'm going to torque the wheels to manufacturer spec which is 80 foot-pounds, and always do it in a star pattern. Double check.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today on our '06 Honda Element I'm going to show you how to replace the rear brakes. If you need those parts, or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to One A Auto.com.
19 millimeter socket, and we're going to break free the lug nuts. You got the pressure of the vehicle on the tire still, so it doesn't turn.
I use the two post lift. At home you can use a jack and jack stands. I'm going to take all the lug nuts off and remove the tire.
Let's break the bleeder screw open, make sure that we can push that piston back. We know it moves when the fluid comes out. Just snug it back up. Now I'm going to dismount the caliper from the caliper bracket. The caliper slider pins, bolts, are 14 millimeter socket or a wrench. Now the little pry bar, I'm going to pry this right off. There we go.
So now I've got to push the piston back. I like to use a little pair of C-clamp pliers, so I'll set it right in there, get it ready to snug ... But I'm not going to compress that piston until I loosen up the bleeder screw. Grab my 10 millimeter, break that free. Have a good catch basin with some pads underneath. Now the bleeder screw's open and I've got my adjusters now. I'm just going to squeeze this. You never want to reverse the brake fluid on an ABS system, plus this gives you your chance to really check out your caliper, make sure it's in working order. That went right back really nice and smooth. So now I'm going to snug that bleeder screw up, remove my pliers. Now I can examine the actual caliper boot and piston and make sure that everything looks good.
I have no moisture around the seal. Everything looks in good shape there. I'm happy with that. I'm just going to set that aside, make sure it's out of my way.
Let's take that bottom bolt out. Now we can pull the caliper bracket off and see what we got here. We have no pad, no pad there, and very little bit of a pad left on the ear. about a quarter of a pad left there. So we're going to see where this failed.
So for some reason the sliders work, slider pins work, and for some reason that outer pad wore off, or the bonding came undone and slid off. Let's see if we have any swelling underneath the hardware, which eliminates the pad from doing its job and sliding back and forth freely.
Now it's time to take the rotor off, and these rotors have mounting ... little screws on them. So we're going to use a pneumatic screwdriver that acts like a puncture, so you hold it taut and hit it with a hammer. So if you get one where the Phillip's head is all worn out, I'm going to use a chisel and literally try to turn it with a chisel. There we go.
And you don't need these. They're just there to help keep the rotor flush while you're adjusting the E brakes. I'm just going to give it a quick little spray down on the hub area, see if we can ... pray this comes right off. Give a quick hit of the hammer. Okay, let's get it off the rest of the way. Wow.
Here we have our new rotor from One A Auto and brake pads. This is the old one that we took off. See the thickness difference. Obviously this is new. The pads from One A Auto come with a nice cooling vent, an angled, so there's no brake dust build up. The rotor is a solid motor with a nice cross cut. They even mill the inside where the E brake shoes go, and a cutout for the backing plate to water, so water can distribute out. So if you need these parts or any other parts of your car, click on the link below and head on over to One A Auto.com.
Here we have our new rotor and the old rotor, and we have to cross over the rubber boot that covers up the slot for the self adjuster on the E brakes. Don't forget to transfer that silver because you don't get a new one with anything. I didn't get one with the hardware either. So it's the slot that has the seat on it. You can just install that right there. We'll be taking it back out when we go to adjust the brakes. Now I'm going to clean the new rotor, getting the packaging oil off of it, the anti-rust oil.
I'm going to put some anti-seize around the hub here on the surface. I already took a wire brush to it. So you're going to line up the adjuster hole and the mounting bolt holes. So with that we have ... it's going to go like this. So now we need to undo the adjuster a little bit. The E brake shoes will not fit inside the rotor housing, it's the hat of the rotor. So I'm backing off on the adjustment. There we go, perfect.
At this point I want to adjust E brake, and by doing that the the rotor has to be flush on the hat, the hub. So where we had ... this screw hole hasn't been used for a while, it's all rusty, and this one was stripped. So I'm going to use two lug nuts. If you have the two mounting screws and they work, you don't have to use the lug nuts, you can use those, and you just want to make sure it's tight to the hub and if you have to bang on it ... You want to be able to spin this and adjust the E brakes, and turn it.
Okay. Now I'm going to take that adjuster cover off. I might back off a little bit on that. You're going to use the window, line up where the star adjuster is, and this way you can adjust it.
I have a high spot right there that I'm not a fan of.
You don't want the brakes to beat snug because if they're too snug, when it goes down the road ... brakes expand ... the wheels start to smoke obviously because it will be almost as if you have the E brake on. There we go.
This backing plate is pretty bad. That's where I'm going to leave it. Now we're going to install the boot.
So now comes the time where we're going to clean up our caliper bracket in silicone and get it ready for the brake pads. Take the old hardware off ... and that's reusable, but you'd have to clean it up. Like I would take a wire wheel to it, or a wire brush if you don't have one, clean the pad surface that it's going to slide on. But I ordered new hardware from One A Auto. This comes coated. It's got a neoprene coating on the back so rust cannot attach itself to the tin, and a new pad spring that goes on the caliper side, that keeps the pads from clanking and making noise.
So we're going to clean the caliper bracket. Take a wire brush to the surface. Do that on both sides. Clean it. Get a little caliper grease, put a thin coat on the metal wherever the tin's going to sit. We don't want water building up in there. Then we're going to take the tins and put them back on. If you use the old ones definitely clean both sides of the tins so that ... See that tab? It's like a butterfly tab there. So that's going to go down and sit right in there. You can take a pair of pliers if you want, squeeze them down, and repeat the process on this side.
Now we're going to clean the caliper pins. Take that out and wipe off the old paste. Look at it: there's no rust. It looks good. The boot: examine it. Make sure there's no tears. And with this I like to use a silicone paste. You can use caliper grease. I'm going to put the silicone paste in there. It's a water base. I like to put it on the inside of the boot grooves. Then I'll take the slider pin and lube up the flat side, or all the way around lightly, with a little glob on the end. That's a glob to me. So then I'm going to slide it in there and work it around, get any air out, squeeze it down.
Okay, it needs to go down more so we're going to get the air out. I'm going to use a pocket screwdriver. Just hold the boot open, squeeze it all the way down. There we go. Repeat the process on this side.
Make sure you get the air out. Do not puncture the boot. Now we're ready to install that bracket. We're going to start the bolts by hand, and I'm just going to snug them down and then get the manufacturer's specs, and torque them down. Let's get the caliper itself out of the way. So a size 14 socket in case you forget. Okay, snug those up. Get our torque wrench. The manufacturer's specs on this is 41 foot pounds.
So now I'm going to put in the new caliper hardware for the anti-rattle clips. I'm just going to take a screwdriver and, poke in there, pry this down again. That's what it looks like. A new, new one, itt's going to have more tension to it. So to start you put this in, bring it all the way over to one side. There it is. So I just kind of did that fast, but I brought it all the way to one side, clipped it in, and then just pushed my finger down on this side: snapped right in.
Now we can install our pads. The one with the indicator goes on the inside, and the one without it goes on the out. They just basically sit right in. like that. And then we're just going to slide the caliper on, get our two slider bolts. It's a 14 millimeter socket. The torque on that is 16 foot pounds. Now we're going to gravity bleed because we did open up that bleeder screw, so I'm going to put a 10 millimeter on there, break it open. Got my catch pan down there. Didn't really get any air bubbles so we're just going to snug it off, get a nice steady drip, clean that up.
Now we're going to put the bleeder screw cover back on. Ready to pump the brakes up.
... Front. I'm going to seek the pads and pump up the brakes. So the manufacturer recommends Dot Three, which I'm going to put in, and this is the diaphragm. It goes down by suction when the brake fluid is low, so just push it gently back into place. Make sure there's no chunks of dirt or anything, or debris. So it's Dot Three brake fluid. I'm going to fill it up to the full line which is on the side here. You can see it starting to come up. I'm going to reinstall the cap. It's got these offsets ... see how they're angled ... so they lock them down and then it just kind of sucks it down. So then they're good.
Now let's put the lug nuts back on. It's a 19 millimeter socket. Just going to tighten them all down and then I can lower it down and torque it. So I'm going to torque the wheels to manufacturer spec, which is 80 foot pounds, and always do it in a star pattern. Double check.
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Tools used
Tools used
