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Part Details
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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This video is brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi. I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A AUTO. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I am going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAUTO.com. The right parts installed correctly that is going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to show you how to replace the front axle on this 2002 GMC Sierra. It is pretty much the same as any Silverado Sierra and Suburban 2500. Tools you will need are 15mm, 22mm, and 35mm sockets, ratchet, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, two inch extension to avoid damaging your CV boots, jack and jack stands and a hammer.
Start up by using a 21 mm socket and just loosening the plastic retainers and taking off the hubcap if you have the style wheels. You want to raise and secure the vehicle. If you are not working with air tools like I am, then loosen the lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground then raise it with a jack, support it with a jack stand and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove the tire.
You want to remove the center dust cap. I started by using a smaller screwdriver and then using a larger screwdriver just working it in at kind of the four corners and opposite sides prying it out and eventually it came off. Now you want to remove the center hub nut. I have a benefit of air tools. If you don't have air tools you want to actually do this. You will probably put the wheel back on, put the truck back down on the ground and remove the hub nut with a big socket and breaker bar. Take a good size hammer. We are replacing the axle so we are not really that worried about it so you can just hit this right out. Basically you can give it one good wrap and just watch the axle in relation to the hub and if it moves then it is all broken free and it moved so this should come right out.
Next you want to unbolt the axle right here. Okay, 15mm socket, you wanted a small extension and then your ratchet. Your extension just keeps it away from the boot which is important when you put it back together. You don't want to ruin that boot. I am just going to take a screwdriver right here and that is how I am going to hold my wheel.
I am going to get some serious high speed here as I loosen up the bolts and remove them all. Now you want to take your axle and put it that way. Okay. Now, okay before you can get all the way out. We'll get a 9/16th wrench and take out this stabilizer link and get the axle right out. Okay. New axle from 1A Auto this is with a new locking nut and put it up in just how you took it on out. Just be careful not to damage these rubber boots at all and work it into your hub here. Push it directly. I am just going to take this and push it right up in there. All the way up.
Okay, really speed it up here. I start each one of the bolts first and then I just kind of preliminarily tighten them with my ratchet and then the next step is going to be to torque them up. I draw all my bolts in and they are tightened preliminarily. Use a torque wrench and I am going to torque these bolts to 60 foot-pounds and use my screwdriver again to hold. Let's use chalk to mark it so I know and then I like to go to the opposite one and pull this around. Okay so I just go to the opposite one and like I said I use a piece of chalk just to mark each one so I know it has been torqued and then I will spin it, and then you torque one then kind of torque the opposite one until you have got them all done.
Okay and kind of continuing the working at fast pace just put the stabilizer link back in. Just make sure you put it all back together with the sleeve in the middle and then when you tighten it up, I usually tighten up so there is about a half an inch of threads at the top showing and that is good enough and tight enough for the suspension. Okay so I am going to put the washer on and hub nut, okay. The hub nut that it came with is actually a 36mm and I don't have a socket that big so I am going to have to reuse my whole one.
Now what I am doing here is I am just tightening it preliminarily with the impact wrench. I am not tightening it all the way up yet. I want to torque it when it is on the ground. Okay, we will go back to speeding up here as we just put the tire on. I'm going to put the lug nuts on all by hand first and then again use our impact wrench just to tighten them preliminarily like the center nut. We are going to torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Now my center nut I'm torqueing to 155 foot-pounds. I am going to pull it tighter and I'm backing off and I am going to re-torque. I take my wheel lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds.
Okay and we'll speed up here and you can see that I kind of cross and do the opposite lug nuts and then afterwards I actually go around one by one and just make sure they are all torqued. Continuing on, we put that center cap, the dust shield back on. Just tap it on with a hammer. That will be fine. I said I used the screwdriver and just kind of tap it on the edges a little more, and then you use your 21mm socket and replace your center cap.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We are the company that is here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. Now, take the axle nut off. Use a 36-millimeter socket. You can take the washer off as well. Use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there. And underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket, and just take the link out. It's a long bolt, goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar. Take the link out.
Now, we can take these bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. All right. Now, you can take the axle and just pry it out a little bit. If you need to, you can use a pry bar or a screwdriver in between there. And just slide it down just like that. Now, I'm gonna push the axle out here. If you have to, you can use a hammer on that, and just slide it out. Slide the axle back in same way it came out. And slide this in position over here. I'll get all the bolts started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 58-foot-pounds. I'm gonna start on this one. And then, I'm gonna switch to the complete opposite side just to torque them down evenly. And you can use a pry bar to hold the studs from spinning. And torque the complete opposite one. And then, once you torque those, then just go around and torque the rest of them. So just take the new link apart. And just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first, and then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer, and the bushing. Line this up, and slide the bushing and the washer.
Pry down on the bar, and then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nut started. All right. That's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut, and a 14-millimeter socket, and tighten this down. And then, you want to torque this to 89-inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. And put the washer back on. Put the nut back on. Now, I'm gonna torque the nut to 177-foot-pounds. I'm gonna use a prey bar to prevent the hub from spinning. There you go. Now put the tire back on, and the lug nuts. Now, I'm gonna torque the lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.
And just go around again. Double-check.
Tools used
Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You want to have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel.
What we need to do now... Oops... What we need to do now is remove the bolts that hold the axle, so the axle comes out of the front differential. I like to use a nice long extension and a swivel. We'll remove all those bolts. Now what we need to do is get this cover off of here. You can use something as simple as a pry bar and a hammer. Just give it a couple of loving bonks. Check your cover, make sure that there's no puncture holes. Let's take off this axle nut. Get that washer out of there as well.
Put a little bit of penetrant in here. Then we're going to take our punch and our hammer and we'll give this a couple of bonks to push the axle through. Okay, that broke free. Let's move along. Let's see if we can make the axle come down. It should go below there. Pull the axle out. There it is, friends. Let's go ahead and clean down this area. Now we're just gonna clean and prep our bolts. Once they're clean, just use a little bit of thread locker on them. We're gonna grab the axle and we'll start putting it back in.
I'm just gonna use some copper never-seize, go right inside that bearing hole there. Grab that axle. Squeeze the little one through. Okay. Pull the axle up to where it needs to go, line it up, and start in your bolts. Now that we have all those started, let's go ahead and snug them up. Do it in a crisscross pattern. So now it's gonna be time to go ahead and torque those bolts. To do that, it's probably easiest if you get down close to the ground, put a bar going through your lug studs like this, and then make it so your wheel can't spin. Go ahead and torque these to 58 foot-pounds.
Every time you get the axle nut on there, you're gonna notice that it's a locking nut because it has the two squished areas. If you still wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Now let's torque this to 155 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's clean out this area. Now we're gonna take our cap and a little bit of gasket maker. Just go right along the edge there and just make a nice seal so no moisture can get in. Start it on there.
Clean up your mess. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay, now with the wheel barely on the ground, so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.
Tools used
