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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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This electric Four Wheel Drive Transfer Case Shift Motor Encoder Ring is a new, aftermarket replacement part. It's just what you need to get your GM truck / SUV running great again!
Specifications:
If you have any questions about this part fitting your vehicle, please call your local dealer with part number: 88962315. They will tell you if it is the correct part for your truck.
Note: If your vehicle requires a match to an RPO (Regular Production Option) code, you can usually find it on your original window sticker and sometimes either on the inside of your trunk lid, spare tire cover, glove box door, or the front driver's side door shell.
If you are having problems with your 4wd not engaging because of a defective 4x4 shift motor encoder ring, then this part is for you!! Why search through junk yards hoping to find a used 4x4 encoder rings when you can have brand new! Replace that defective transfer case encoder ring now with a brand new part.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Now, we're gonna take off the front drive shaft. Before I do that, I just wanna mark it from the front yoke, just take a marker or a pen. This way I can put it back together the way it came apart, just to avoid any unnecessary vibrations that you could cause. And I'll use a 11-millimeter socket, or you can use a wrench. Take these caps off. Just twist it. And then get these ones off.
Before I slide the drive shaft out, there is a clamp that goes right here. You're gonna wanna take that clamp off. It looks just like this one. You can either cut it off or just try to jam a screwdriver in there and pry it off. When you go to put it back together, you could use a tie wrap or a wire tie to put back in that position. So this one doesn't have that, so I'm all set.
Now, just take out your pry bar, pry back. And just be careful. You don't want these caps to fall off. I just wiggle this back and forth a little bit. Slide it down. Then you can slide this forward. Slide that boot off. Now, just pry this boot back a little bit and just slide the shaft out. I'm gonna remove this shield. I'll use a 15-millimeter socket to take these 4 bolts out. And this connector right here, I'm gonna disconnect that. That goes to the encoder motor. Just push down on that tab. It's right there.
All right. Now, we're gonna take a 15-millimeter socket and take these 3 bolts out.
Take those out, and just support the encoder motor while you're doing that. And then just slide it back and slide it down. Now, take this gasket off and it's ideal to replace it. If you don't have that option and it looks okay, you can reuse it. Now, just try to clean off any of the dirt. There's a lot of sand on here. Now, this is cleaned up. Now, I'm gonna take these two screws out right here and these two screws out. Leave these two in. You don't have to take those out. Use a Phillips head screwdriver.
So these two screws are actually longer, so keep that in mind. And just grab this cover and just slide it straight up. Just like that. Now, normally, you would have a timing mark on here that would be over in this area, and then there'd be a mark on the case as well. And when you're all done, you're gonna wanna line those up. This does not have one. This may be an aftermarket encoder motor, so in that case, we're gonna make our own marks. And we'll just put it back together the way it came apart. So just take a pen or a felt tip pen, mark right there. And then I'm also gonna mark over here because I wanna put it exactly how it was when it came apart.
Now, I can just grab this gear and just slide it up gently. We wanna disconnect this connector right here. You can use a straight blade screwdriver or a pick. Just slide this off, just like that. Now, this is the sensor. We'll just take this off. Now, just grab underneath the sensor. Just take a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver, and just pry it up. And take the new one. And there is a key way. So line that key way up and slide it down in position.
I am gonna rotate this to where it was. And there is an index right here for where the sensor's gonna go. So plug the sensor in. And that's all the way down. Line the key way up and line your timing marks up. And that looks good. Now, that's all set. Now, just clean up this area right here. Just use a rag, make sure there's no dirt in there. That looks pretty clean. It's ideal to replace this seal, but if you don't have one and it looks okay, then it should be good. Slide this back over and then put the screws back in. Smaller screws over here and longer screws right here. And tighten these screws down.
And if you have the ability to torque these, you can torque these 2 smaller screws to 18 inch pounds, make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds, and these 2 screws to 26 inch pounds. And then take this gasket and reinstall that. It's ideal to replace it, but reuse it if you have to. Now, just take the encoder motor. Now, if you did index it to that neutral position, you are gonna have to shift the transfer case into neutral. You can just put a wrench on that that fits and just adjust it to the neutral position. And then you'll be able to line up the encoder motor. It only goes on one way.
And then you're gonna torque these bolts to 15 foot pounds.
Now, find the connector and connect the connector. And then find the bracket that this pin goes in and reposition that. That's good. Now, take the front drive shaft and just slide it over that crossmember and the exhaust and slide it into the transfer case. And push that boot on there and then slide the front, and you join it into the yoke, and try to line it up with your marks.
That's good. And put these caps on. Now, I'm just gonna use a pry bar to prevent the drive shaft from spinning and torque these bolts to 18 foot pounds. Now, you should get a clamp that goes on here, pretty much like the clamp that came off of there, there's a metal clamp, or some people actually use a wire tie on that. That works as well. And take this plate and line it up. Put the bolts back in and tighten these down.
