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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tire rod on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as a Saturn Aura. We show you the right-hand or passenger side, but the left-hand driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new tie rod or tie rods from www.1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a socket wrench, maybe even a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage, tape measure, 18mm wrench, large adjustable or a 13/16 wrench, hammer, and a torque wrench.
Depending on what wheels you have, start out be removing the lug caps, and then we'll cover if applicable. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and support the vehicle. I'll remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Use a tape measure to get a general idea of a total length. You can use a reference point of the outer part of the boot, and then the outer part of the tie rod end, and just remember that number. On the end of the tie rod is an 18mm, so I'm using the socket and socket wrench to remove that nut. I'll fast-forward as I take off that nut.
Locate the nut at the end of the outer tire rod. We're going to go ahead and just loosen it just a little bit. I'm using a 13/16 wrench. You can use the metric equivalent. With a hammer, go ahead and give the end of that spindle a whack and pull the outer tie rod out. Then you can go ahead and unscrew it. I'll fast-forward through that. Be as careful as you can to not turn the inner tie rod.
Here, we're going to reinstall. You'll notice we are reinstalling the old one. There's nothing wrong with the tie rods on this vehicle. We just are doing this to show you how to do it. Tie rods from 1A Auto are going to be an exact match to the original. You may want to just measure the length. There could be a slight difference in length, and you would want to make sure you align it well.
Go ahead and put that 18mm nut back on the outer tire rod. I'm using a small pair of vice grips to hold the other part of the ball joint so that it doesn't spin as I tighten up that 18mm nut. There might be other ways that you would find easier to do it, but that's the one that I use. Then once I get it through, I'll be able to put the vice grip on the end that's coming through the nut. You can see here that once I take that socket off, I'll have plenty of room to put that on, and then use an open-ended wrench.
Here, I'm using that vice grip on the bottom, and I'm going to use an open-ended wrench to finish up tightening it up. I'll fast-forward through this. Now tighten up the nut on the inner tie rod that we just slightly loosened. Make sure that's snug up against the back portion of that outer tie rod. I'm just verifying that the tire rod is in somewhat of a right position, and it will be ready for me to take over to have an alignment done.
Install the wheel, and tighten up on your lug nuts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through this. In a star pattern, go ahead and torque your lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds. Reinstall your hubcap, and make sure that you line up the notch in the hubcap for where your valve stem is. Then, by hand, use your 19mm socket to tighten up those plastic lug nut covers. I'll fast-forward through that.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you wanna be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension's hanging. So come right underneath here. This is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area. I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut. If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure and we'll try again. If your tie rod's still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here and break it free.
For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. The next thing we need to do is hold our inner tie rod end shaft with some locking pliers. After that, we're gonna remove this jam nut. Next, we need to remove this clamp right here. I like to use some nice long pliers.
Next, we need to remove this metal clamp right here. To do that, it's easiest if you bonk on it with something. I'm just gonna use a pry bar and a hammer. I'm gonna bonk it, break it free, and we'll get that boot right off. Here it is. Grab onto your boot. Give it a nice little twist. See if you can break it free from the power steering rack. If your boot is stuck on the power steering rack, you can be careful and use an ice pick like this and just try to break it free. Oh, yeah. Now I can give it a nice twist. Pull it off the power steering rack. You might notice it's also stuck on here. If you want to use a tiny bit of penetrant, you could do that. I'm just gonna twist and give it a tug. It should wanna slide right off.
Next, it's gonna be time to get the inner tie rod end off of the power steering rack. A wise man once said whatever works, works. So you can either use some nice long pliers like this, an inner tie rod end tool that looks like this, or they even have a tube that would slide over with a little adapter. Do whatever you need to do, but turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the rack. Now that the tool's on there, let's go ahead and break this free. There we are. We'll just get our tool off of there, but there it is.
Now it's gonna be time to install our brand new inner tie rod end. One thing that you wanna do, of course, is to take off that jam nut. We're gonna be reusing it, so we'll just set it aside. After we've done that, we're gonna apply a little bit of grease, right along inside here of the nice packet that they gave us. Don't use it all because we're also gonna use a little bit right along this lip right here. I'll just put all this right in there. Using a gloved finger, go ahead and just smooch it all right in there. This is gonna help keep moisture out of there and, of course, help lubricate it over time. A little bit right here, like I said. If you wanna use a little bit of blue threadlocker on those threads, we'll call it your prerogative. I'm just gonna go ahead and screw this on here until it's nice and snug and then we'll tighten it to manufacturer specifications. Torque this to 74-foot-pounds.
Now it's gonna be time to get our inner tie rod end boot on there. Just go ahead and take a nice wire tie, start it so it's not tight yet. We're gonna slide this right on over. We'll put it over the rack as well, and then, of course, we'll snug it right up. You need to make sure you have some sort of clamp if you don't use a wire tie. Trim off the excess. Now we're gonna make sure we put on the outer clamp. If it's damaged or it doesn't seem like it has enough spring retention, of course, replace that with something as well. Now it's gonna be time to coat the threads with something. If you don't have any copper never seize, you can go ahead and just use a tiny bit of that grease that we just used for the inner tie rod end. New jam nut.
Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18-foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees. So basically 1/4 turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another 1/4 turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.
The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut, compare it to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell, I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.
Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double-check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts. We'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100-foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Okay friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe, so have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle, safely raised and supported. We're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts.
Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area, I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now, we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut.
If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have, and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure, and we'll try again. If your tie rod still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here, and break it free.
For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with, because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it, and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. It's always important to make sure you coat your threads with something such as copper never seize.
Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18 foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees, so basically a quarter turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another quarter turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that, and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.
The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut compared to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.
Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Tools used
